A few flowers from the garden or a meaningful bouquet can become a small keepsake you actually use or display. Clear epoxy makes the petals easy to see from every angle, whether you are making a coaster, a decorative tray or a floral paperweight.
To preserve flowers in epoxy resin, dry them completely, test a spare bloom, and embed them in a resin suited to your mould’s depth. Fresh flowers should not go straight into the pour. Moisture trapped inside can spoil the flowers and the finished piece.
For a first attempt, choose a shallow mould and a few pressed flowers. You can practise placement and bubble control without committing an entire bouquet to a large casting.
Start with the finished shape you want
The flower and the mould need to work together. A full rose needs room around its petals; a pressed blossom can fit into a much thinner piece. Leave space for resin above, below and around the flowers so nothing pokes through the finished surface.
- Coasters and small decorative trays: pressed flowers and individual petals make placement easier.
- Small ornaments: choose a few delicate flowers rather than packing the cavity tightly.
- Paperweights and bouquet blocks: whole dried blooms require a deeper mould and a casting plan that accounts for heat and trapped air.
Before buying supplies, arrange the dry flowers beside the mould and take a photo of the layout. Check which face of the casting will be displayed: the bottom of a flat silicone mould often becomes the front of the finished piece.
How to dry flowers before putting them in resin
Start drying the flowers while they still look good. Resin will not repair bruised petals or restore a wilted bloom. Choose a drying method for the shape you want to keep:
- Pressing: useful for flat designs. Use a flower press with suitable absorbent paper and keep petals from overlapping.
- Flower-drying silica gel: useful for preserving a bloom’s three-dimensional shape. Follow the drying product’s instructions and support the petals gently with the granules.
- Air drying: a simple option when you are happy with a more rustic, dried-flower appearance. Shrinking and colour changes are part of the result.
Drying can take days or weeks depending on the method, flower and conditions. A dry outer petal does not prove that the thick centre is ready. If you are uncertain, allow more drying time instead of setting a pour date first.
Remove loose drying granules carefully without washing the flowers. Store prepared blooms in a dry, airtight container until you are ready to use them. Handle them with tweezers or by the stem: dried petals can tear easily.
Test for colour changes before using special flowers
A dried flower can look different once resin wets its surface. Some petals become darker or translucent, and damaged areas may show up more clearly. White flowers may already have turned cream during drying. That is why a small trial is more useful than assuming every flower will behave the same way.
Use a spare petal or a similar flower with the exact resin you plan to use. Let the sample cure, then look at its colour, clarity and trapped bubbles in daylight. Keep a photo and a note of what you used.
Do dried flowers need to be sealed?
A compatible clear craft sealer can help limit air release and changes in appearance, but it is not a guarantee and it cannot make a damp flower ready for resin. Test both the sealer and resin on a spare sample. Let any sealer or adhesive dry fully according to its instructions before embedding the flower.
For wedding or memorial flowers, keep some blooms aside until you are satisfied with the test. A small practice piece is a much better place to discover that a particular petal changes colour.
Choose epoxy for the depth of the project
Magic Resin Art & Craft Resin is a useful starting point for up to 3/4'' moulds and small floral pieces. For thick paperweights or bouquet blocks, look at the Deep Pour & Casting range and plan the layers before mixing.
A deeper mould is not permission to fill it in one pour. Follow the instructions for your exact formula, including pour depth, batch size and temperature. The resin generates heat as it cures, so the size and shape of the casting matter as well as its depth.
Work out the total quantity before you begin using our guide to calculating epoxy for moulds. Then divide the job into suitable batches. A large supply of mixed resin waiting in a cup is not a helpful head start.
How to embed pressed flowers in a shallow mould
Have your dried flowers, clean silicone mould, measuring containers, stir sticks, tweezers and a toothpick ready. Protect the work surface, wear suitable gloves and eye protection, and follow the product’s ventilation and safety instructions.
1. Prepare the mould and workspace
Set the mould on a level surface. Check for dust, lint and moisture, especially in corners. Keep the room and resin at the temperature specified for your product throughout the cure; a room that warms up during the day but gets cold overnight can give inconsistent results.
2. Measure and mix the first batch
For Magic Resin Art & Craft, the ratio is 1:1 by volume or 100:90 by weight, part A (resin) to part B (hardener). For example, use 100 mL of each by volume, or 100 g of A with 90 g of B on a scale. These are different measuring methods, not interchangeable ratios.
Mix slowly for 4–5 minutes, reaching the sides and bottom. Pour without scraping the leftover material from the container onto the project. If you are using another formula, follow its own mixing and pouring instructions.
3. Add a base layer and position the flowers
Pour a thin base layer within the product’s recommendations. Place the pressed flowers gently with tweezers, facing the direction you planned. Use a toothpick to ease resin around the edges and release visible air pockets without repeatedly stirring the arrangement.
If the flowers float, do not try to hold them down by filling the mould faster. Use the first layer to secure them, let it reach the product’s recommended recoating stage, then add the remaining resin. Plan enough room for a clear layer above the petals.
4. Complete the pour within the recoating window
Prepare a fresh, accurately measured batch for each layer. Follow the resin’s recoating instructions rather than a fixed waiting time from another tutorial. If a layer has fully cured, it may need sanding and cleaning before the next pour; avoid sanding into exposed flowers.
Check around the petals while the resin is still workable. A toothpick can help free a trapped bubble near the surface. Do not chase bubbles with prolonged heat, direct a flame at dried flowers or overheat a silicone mould. Surface heat cannot reliably remove air trapped deep beneath a bloom.
5. Let the piece cure before finishing
Protect the mould from dust with a cover that does not touch the resin or trap excessive heat. Leave it level and undisturbed for the product’s recommended cure time. A piece that can be removed from a mould may still need more time before normal use.
For Art & Craft coasters, allow a week before wear and tear, as directed in the product guide. If a fully cured edge needs attention, follow our epoxy sanding and polishing guide.
Common questions about flowers in resin
Can you put fresh flowers directly into epoxy?
No. Dry them thoroughly first. Covering a fresh flower with clear resin does not remove the water inside it.
Why are there bubbles around the petals?
Air can remain between overlapping petals or be released from the flower itself. Sparse arrangements, gentle placement and a small test pour make these problems easier to spot. A tightly closed bloom is more demanding than a flat pressed flower.
Will the flowers keep their exact colour forever?
No preservation method can promise that. Drying, contact with resin and light exposure can all change the appearance. Display floral resin pieces indoors, away from prolonged direct sunlight, and treat the dried colours as part of the finished design.
Can I preserve an entire bouquet on my first attempt?
It is better to begin with a few spare flowers in a small mould. A large bouquet block adds more variables at once: positioning, resin volume, heat, layers and air trapped inside the blooms. For an important bouquet, practise first and get advice on the casting plan.
Make a small keepsake first
One pressed flower in a clear coaster is enough to learn the process. Once you are happy with the drying, colour test and placement, you can build a matching set or move to a deeper piece.
If you are planning a large floral casting, contact the Magic Resin team with the mould dimensions, flower height and intended pour depth. We can help you choose a suitable resin and check the plan before you mix.